Cafes and Bars around Antwerp
Antwerp's pubs have survived better than those in many large Belgian towns, with most of the pubs in the city centre retaining a good deal of character whilst being spared the bland renovations that have struck other parts of Belgium like a plague
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I used to think that Amsterdam (with 1,250) was heavily pubbed until I first visited Antwerp (Antwerpen in Dutch, Anvers in French). In a city alomost exactly the same size there are double the number of boozers. Some of the small squares in the old town seem to house nothing but pubs. It's a heartwarming sight. Antwerp's pubs have survived better than those in many large Belgian towns - especially those in the South, like Liège, totally controlled by Interbrew. Most of the pubs in the city centre have remained a good deal of character and been spared the bland renovations that have struck Belgium like a plague. The only slight downside to all of this, is that, for those arriving by train, the good pubs are a very healthy walk away. Almost all the interesting ones are in the old city, about a mile away from the main railway station. There are plenty of pubs close to the station, but they aren't exactly the most salubrious. Entertaining they can certainly be. I have fond memories of a Sunday afternoon in a café where complete families, from babies to grandparents, were drinking the day away. But do be warned if you're after a quiet, civilised few beers that this may not be the part of town for you. Extracted from the original publication by Ron Pattinson https://www.europeanbeerguide.net/antwpubs.htm
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Kulminator is an excellent specialist bar, a pioneer in beer aging. Tucked away in a obscure street in the city centre, it's easily worth the effort of tracking it down. It's a long thin pub, with unspectacular, but cosy décor. On the way to the toilet you can see through a window into the temperature-controlled room where beers are ageing. I won't bore you with a long description, because the physical environment is almost irrelevant here. What's important is the beer. The beer selection is outstanding. Just the new beers would make it an excellent beer pub. What tips it over into the wonderful, is an unrivalled choice of old beers. Every vintage of Chimay Blue stretching back 10 years or more. Eldridge Pope Hardy Ale and Gales Prize Old Ale at drinking age (10 years old). Forgotten beers from long-closed breweries, beers never offically sold (I've had Westvleteren Green, the beer for the monastery's internal use, here once), anything you could dream about and more. It would take several weeks to exhaust the possibilities. World fame has not been kind to Kulminator's stocks of vintage beer. (Luckily, the unpoularity of this page leaves me blameless. Phew!) They didn't expect demand to be so big, when they started cellaring. Mass beer tourism must have come as a bit of a shock.
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Something you must visit when in Anterp is the street market on Wapper and Graanmarkt, just off the main shopping drag Meir. What I like about Belgium is their mediterranean approach to food. Strolling around this market, you'll find plenty of evidence of a populatiion healthily preoccupied with what they eat. A seconary reason for having a look at the market is Oud Arsenaal, very handily placed half way along it. When I first visited Belgium, back in the early 1980's, pubs of this type were common. The Belgian take on a brown beer cafe - small, dark and cosy. What has happened to most of them since, is comparable to Watney's assault on British pubs in the sixties and seveties. Yet the continued popularity of places like this shows just how wrong the pub despoilers were and how little in tune with the public. Your main problem is likely to be finding a seat. (I told you these places were popular). The bar - with a lovely leaded glass screen at one end - offers only limited standing opportunities. An impressive array of beer memorabilia hides all the vertical surfaces. Below, a long bench, a succession of tables crushing in front of it, stretches the length of the wall. On a sunny day, the seats outside - a great bratwurst stall directly opposite - are even harder toclaim than those inside. Think the guy leaning on the bar is looking hostile? About a second after I took the picture he cracked a joke about "bedrijfsespionage" (industrial espionage) with me and the barman. Quite a friendly response to some foreign idiot snapping away obtrusively. But that's Belgium for you: hospitable and humourous. Most countries only manage one, some neither, of those qualities. Plenty of Belgian beer pubs have lists that run into hundreds. Arsenaal's is quite small in comparisn. "Klein maar fijn" (small but good) as they say in Dutch. The highlight is a selection traditional lambic beers: Oude Geuze, Oude Kriek. If, like me, you like the proper unsweeted, uncomprimisingly sour stuff, you won't be disappointed. There's one guest tap to add some variety. I would tell you what all the draught beers are but, I was so busy pissing around taking pictures, that I forgot to note them down. I'm sure you'll forgive me this one lapse. promise not to do it again. My favourite pub in Antwerp. A gem without a single fault. Maybe apart from being loved by too many others.
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Pater's Vaetje is nice and easy to find, being right next to the cathedral (you can't miss it; big building, one spire not quite finished yet). It's in a typical 17th century Antwerp house and there are plenty of signs of its age inside. The floor is flagged with red tiles and the beams are visible in the high ceiling. The bar counter is a lovely carved wooden affair, with some attractive leaded glass work. At the rear is a small raised gallery. Continuing the use of traditional materials, the tables are marble-topped. The beer list is pretty good, too. Obviously, the bottled beers are mostly Belgian, but I don't find that a great problem. The draught beers are rather boring and there is an obvious Alken-Maes tie of some kind. Overall, a pleasant and intimate café well worth a visit. Really not bad for the centre of town.
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